Saturday, June 7, 2008

Jean Albrecht,Orschwihr, Alsace France, June 6th, 2008


     I met Jean Albrecht of his family's winery yesterday around noon at the Vidalia restaurant and he was charming and delighted to hear me speak French. He's working on his English but often stops and asks his export manager Bertrand Denoune to translate for him. They've got this down quite well. Jean is quite the professional , he walked around the restaurant introducing himself to everyone and making sure that they had a glass in their hands. We started with the cremant d'Alsace brut and it really helped to take the edge off things as we got ready to enjoy the delicious wine-food pairing meal to follow. Attention to every detail was followed. Chef R.J. Cooper did the fabulous job of having his food highlight these extraordinary seven whites of three rieslings ( 2004,2001,1979 Clos Himmelreich ), three pinot gris( 2004, 2001, 1983 Clos de Recollets ) and one gewurztraminer selection de grains nobles 1985. We started with the cremant d'Alsace nrut rose, n.v. and Jean said that it was in fact one of his favorite wines to drink, that he drank a lot of it, period. I agree, I was bowled over by how smooth and soft, bright and creamy-dreamy it felt on the palate. You can enjoy it anytime with or without food. Here are some para-phrasings of Jean's for you to enjoy. He came alive fully through this wonderful meal.

     " You will understand better my English the more you drink. " Jean Albrecht started with ... he's got a sense of humor.

     " Opened a month ago a 1947 Gewurztraminer. It was perfection - sphere de perfection , color gold, sun-filtered bronze ".

     Jean walked around the room the whole time and engaged the crowd, speaking to everyone at times and also to each of the seated people at the five or so tables in the private dining room at Vidalia. He was always drawing people into this experience of his. He rarely sat down long enough to enjoy his meal before he would get so excited about something new and have to stand up and share his enthusiasm/ observations with the gathered group which included people in wine retail, restaurants and wine reviewers, too.

     " You could spend the whole day, one wine, enjoying the bouquet " said Jean of the Gewurztraminer selection of grains nobles 1985. I agree, it was amazing, so many levels of smell.

     " We say this wine is the color the same as the people have in the banks of Switzerland ". Again, referring to the 1985 grains nobles.

     " All Rieslings have petrol. Tomorrow the price doubles ! " Jean says as we start enjoying the Clos Himmelreich( referring to soaring gas price increases everywhere in the world today ) 2004.2001 and 1979.

     " France and now Vidalia make good foie gras " says Jean when we try chef R.J. Cooper's excellent whole foie gras ( not sliced or ground ). I loved trying it this way, had to chew a bit more and liked the leaner more solid texture.

     " Thomas Jefferson came to Alsace, drank a " straw wine ". I made a straw wine. I have created in 1998 a fat Riesling - fantastic wine, reduced 75% / like this wine that Thomas Jefferson drank - irons, limestone - 6/8 grape types, selected, maceration 5 weeks. We work with minus 5 degrees giving more aromes/bouquet. The wine is 4 years in a row the best Pinot Noir produced in Alsace according to one critic( Jean mentioned his name but I did not know of him or write it down quickly enough ) through 2007. Best Pinot Noir ( 2004, the wine we were drinking now with Jean ) in Alsace? Sante ! " finished Jean. I'm sorry that I could not write it all. You all should have been with us. It was quite the extraordinary event. The 2004 Pinot Noir was wonderful. It had been sitting over to the side of the room already poured into the glasses ready to be served at the right time. I loved it, medium-to-light-bodied, flavorful and lots of character and taste but all in balance. It will sell for $45-40 a bottle and we will have some in a couple of weeks here.
     The photos that I took of this event will soon follow, sometime next week. Stay-tuned, I got some great shots of jean and the whole event.
     JOIN US at Cleveland Park Wines and Spirits, 3423 Conn. Ave. N.W. Washington D.C. on Saturday, June 14th ( 2-6 PM ) when we taste some of Jean's new releases with Emilio Velez. No charge, everyone welcome.

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