Saturday, November 23, 2013

My Immediate Notes On Reading This Morning's Article : " How 20 Vineyards Are Making World-Class Vintages - World-Class Vineyards in Virginia.Really. " In The Washington Post Weekend Magazine 11/23/13



     These are just some quick observations that I would like to share and add to this article to create more conversation and permit more information into this picture of Virginia wine-making that really got off the ground with FARFELU, GABRIELLE RAUSSE,  INGLESIDE, MEREDITH, PIEDMONT, OASIS, NAKED MOUNTAIN, RAPIDAN, WILLIAMSBURG , PRINCE MICHEL, SWEDENBOURG, LINDEN and others that I cannot recall as I type now. We need to give all these wineries credit for making it possible for the " new " darlings that are mentioned above to make all their advancements and accomplishments that are well-deserved.

     Today there are many that are contributing as well that have not been mentioned, as they are also including other grape varietals besides the red Bordeaux grape varietals to the equation. But before I mention some of those I would like to say that the one red Bordeaux grape varietal that I think deserves a lot of attention is the Petit Verdot and I would have liked to see more written and discussion on it.

     Now we have vineyards that are also also pushing the boundaries with older hybrids like the Chambourcin dry red from FABBIOLI where owner Doug is making a delightful version that will complement many a meal and occasion. he's also working with the Tannat grape from Madiran and making a massive and complex and dark-fleshed version that can take some real aging in the cellar before drinking.

     I am shocked and saddened to not see any mention here at all of Gabrielle Rausse that is indeed a pioneer of Virginia winemaking and deserves to be mentioned in each and every article written on Virginia wine. He started way back I believe in April 1976 was it, is that possible, when there was just the FARFELU winery? Gabrielle makes such food-friendly wines with balance, charm, personality and finesse. He uses also the grapes from Italy from where he came like the Nebbiolo and the Refosco grape and gives the originals in Italy a real run for their money. He's pretty amazing, humble, knowledgeable , willing to share and teach what he knows, a gardener, too that has tended Thomas Jefferson's Monticello gardens. In short he's pretty amazing.

     I also applaud BOXWOOD for sticking to their guns and continuing to produce fine, age-worthy-style Bordeaux  reds that will slowly grow into their own fine wines as the vines age and start to produce top-flight wines. You cannot rush them, they need food, they need to be included here as they are taking the pains and the time to make great red wine and not compromise now till they get where they surely will because with the vines that viticulture guru Lucie Morton has planted for them - as she also has done for BOORDY in Maryland - they will arrive grandly with the necessary time that it takes.

     My point : let's not be too quick to judge and just include the darling wineries ( I know I will get a lot of flack for this but I believe strongly in many more wineries than the few here ) than just the 20 mentioned already in this article that does come at a great time and create interest and conversation. Bravo to Dana Milbank for that.

     Virginia is also making really fine whites and the Viognier grape variety that hails from France's Condrieu region on the northern Rhone valley and brought to  international attention by the HORTEN winery should also be mentioned.

     Virginia is also making great strides with the Norton grape variety where they got clippings from STONE HILL in Missouri and have made some fine hearty, robust, intense, dark, inky, herbal dry reds like those from CHRYSALIS , just to name one.

     Michael Shaps has done some interesting blending as well as a consultant to young wineries like DEMOCRACY where he has used the Pinotage grape variety from South Africa to great effect in blends. And his 3-liter box wines that he sells under his second label WINEWORKS is pretty amazing in white and red for under $40 a box! Wave of the everyday, affordable, enjoyable future baby! Let's not be snobs.

     Other wineries that are making great inroads : CHESTER GAP, PEARMUND, VERITAS, and THIBAUT-JANISON for sparkling wines. There's also COOPER VINEYARDS  the winery that makes  " Noche " , a chocolate-infused dark red, delicious Norton red wine that everyone loves.

     In short, Virginia is making great strides on many fronts and deserves a whole lot of praise and attention on so many of them. I've got to go to work to sell more Virginia and local wines for our Thanksgiving. Remember, this is just a chat, just the start of a conversation. Please comment. Have a great Thanksgiving 2013 and drink Virginia and local wines when you can. Cheers,  Anthony ( TONY ) Quinn  11/23/13
   


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