Thursday, October 23, 2008

Serge Hochar, Owner of CHATEAU MUSAR ( Thurs. Oct. 22nd, 2008 ) In His Own Words, Paraphrased At Zaytinya Restaurant




It's always a great pleasure to see Serge Hochar the fascinating owner of CHATEAU MUSAR in Lebanon. I think it's the third time I have met him ( twice now at Zaytinya and once at Cleveland Park Wines & Spirits where he did a tasting for our customers one Saturday ) and I learn each and every time that I meet him. He's really very passionate about what he does and he speaks a mile-a-minute when talking about his wines that it is hard to keep up with him.

The wine was like second nature to Serge, so automatic, like breathing in and out. It was like he could do it now asleep because it was so well ingrained/integrated into every single fiber of his being. He was the supreme ambassador for his wines as well as for their really long and enduring history in the face of so much human upheaval. These wines still survive and actually thrive under Serge's stewardship! We owe Serge a real debt for always believing in these grapes and wines of his and never giving up on their promotion and on explaining them as best as he can to the world at large : a world that is changing and evolving so quickly that many things have never been learned and many that have are quickly forgotten for more recent/more popular current events.

I'm sorry I don't have any pictures ( just two that I took with my cell phone ) and so this will be mostly all written. I forgot my camera at Cleveland Park Wine & Spirits ( www.clevelandparkwine.com sales@clevelandparkwine.com 202-363-4265 ) where I manage the wine department. That really saddens me because the production that I saw visually upstairs at Zaytinya restaurant on 9th, St N.W. Washington D.C. yesterday Wednesday, October 22nd from 2:45-4 PM when I was there really took my breath away. They worked it beautifully and visually it was a sight for any sore eyes in love with the history, the magic, the wonder and the picture of wine, what it was and what it can be in a lovely context. Almost as if I was in Europe somewhere, I was transported by the spectacle before me.

I arrived a half-hour or so late and had to pass Serge who was already deep into waxing-poetic about his wines ( reds in this case. He had started with the six reds ( 1999, 1995 , 9991 , 1981 , 1975 and 1976 ) and finished with the four whites ( 2000 , 1990 , 1970 and 1964 ). Wow, this was quite the tasting by Broadbent Selections and I was thrilled to be included by my local rep Chris Pigott from the Country Vintners. I think I was the only retailer there ; all the others seemed to be in the restaurant side of the business.

I got there a bit late and had to pass by Serge Hochar. I said that we had already met and recognizing me he said he knew with a fleeting smile, pausing before he dove right back into his flowing discourse/ heart-felt, sweated, fully-lived, experienced and thought-through conversation about these six reds of his going from nine-years bottle-age ( 1999 ) up to forty-one years ( 1967 ) of age! The whites which would follow went from the 2000 with eight years of age to the 1964 with forty-four years of bottle-age. As I said this was a great tasting and I was arriving and would have to catch-up quickly! I did, too though it was tough between writing quickly what Serge was saying, including some of my own notes and tasting pretty much continuously without-break all-in-one fell swoop! Yikes, what a rush of visual as well as auditory and gustatory sensations!

My writing in such depth in these blogs is a bit selfish on my part. It helps me to take my own personal odyssey and to explore myself/my reactions, my memory and my interpretation of things, tastes and events and hopefully come out a bit wiser, happier and more educated?!? That's the hope at any rate. I also hope you gain something from all this as well by being patient and giving me some room to spin these long blogs. That is also my genuine intent : to share and to teach and to open things up to you all.

However, saying all this, for more technical information on CHATEAU MUSAR ( Serge Hochar, president Directeur General ) go to : Tel : ( 961 ) 1 328211 - 201828 Fax : ( 961 ) 1 201827 P.O. Box 281 Beirut - Lebanon info@chateaumusar.com.lb 25 High Street Hampton, Middlesex, TW12 2SA Tel : ( 44 ) 208 941 8311 Fax : ( 44 ) 208 941 7843.

Here is what Serge was saying as best and as quickly as I could write/record : enjoy -

" In 1959 I started making wines. In 1969 I knew nothing, can a wine be so young after 50 years ?!? I learned, I went through different ways, wanted to accent Nature - my wines could be unconsciously like great Saint-Emilion, like great Bordeaux. Finally found my formula in 1977 - grapes of natural maturity : one-third Cabernet Sauvignon , one-third Cinsault and one-third Carignan ( for the red blend ). Would have structure with Cabernet, Carignan gave flesh and muscle and the Cinsault would give skin. This 1977 was one of the rare wines of the world. Smell 7 smells : rotten first and ends up flowers - animal then flower, easy - all in 1977. Takes 5 hours to taste / the smell of 1977 - greatest, from rotten cabbage to the lightest - the taste I'd like to have. !967- to get back to the youngest wines. 1975 - last one. "

As you can see it's hard to follow. You really had to be there. You really almost have to be Serge Hockar to follow all of this. I love his passion/conviction dearly because he's so dedicated and focused on following this path and the natural vision/ way where it leads and staying with it till the last gasp, the last swallow, the last breath/ taste. Let the wine go where it will and he/we must be faithful and follow and observe and be ambassadors to the spectacle of these wines' lives and their evolutions - good and bad. We / he must try and understand them and after tasting and listening to Serge Hockar this is exactly what I want to do! Damn it / damn me - it's the right thing to do!

Serge continues : " 1999 how's it look, old? hidden? As wine ages it gets younger and younger - tannins integrate, behind this wine - fruit juice - it's not the tendency of wine's today. This ( 1999 ) is natural. - not wood fruit juice - showing you - these verticals - like this - might become fascinating ( it is Serge, it really is fascinating I think, and you want to know if it is to all of us gathered around the table listening to you? ) - spend hours tasting this wine ( 1999 ). What does it tell you? You will be speechless! The 1999 looks simple, looks more common, although it's a greater year than the 1967. Imagine yourself today as if you were 10 years old, all the things you could not say at ten. Just taste one drop, what does it tell you? " Serge just speeds along a mile a minute!

He's really almost talking to himself. He's going down a trail that the 1967 opens and clears for him. He created this wine and yet it is teaching him as much about himself as it is about itself. He's still got as many questions that this 1967 brings up as it answers. It's perhaps a bit maddening to Serge and yet he's sunk hook, line and sinker. He's fascinated and thrilled to follow the leads and the paths that the tastes in this dry red 1967 provide.

Thinking about this a day later I realize that even though this was as much a quest that Serge feels he must and has to go on he's equally passionate about sharing it and having company. He wants the company, he wants this to be a shared experience.

As he said early on he was not in it just for the money, He and his family did not release the wines early, they waited until they were ready to be released. He's a romantic, a visionary, a patient man willing to invest in the future - the whole future from start to finish of his family's wines. It was not just for the money. It perhaps became less for the money - or for any of the money - and more and more for the real promise and the ability and learning how to taste and truly appreciate the " now " and remember the " then " and imagine the " later " of these many babies/ these wines of his family's. I mat be rambling a bit but I think I've just hit the core of Serge and I wonder what he will think of this when he reads it and whether he will agree with me or not? What do you others think of this all?

" We could say many things about it? ( the 1999 ) What can you say as a chef? " said Serge speaking to one of the young gentlemen to his right. " 1967 through 1999? " continues Serge.

" This is a miracle they can go and show no signs of age. Once you realize it's a living product, it ( the wine ) talks to you / you talk to it. It has some thickness, has some life - 1999 - a very big year - 1967 - a stage in my life when I was still trying to understand wine, still looking ... " Serge continued to speak.

Then we went on to tasting the whites and Serge had so much to say about these, maybe more than he had to say about the reds.

" Whites you have a different approach. Two ancient grapes used ( a old version of Bordeaux'z Semillon called Merlot blanc is it? I'm not sure, it sounded like Merlot ) grapes with a hundred thousand years of tradition , some ten thousand, some six thousand years ... used by the first men of humanity - wine drinkers. These two grapes are genetically so old they have weight beyond anything on earth - juice with such weight. How they taste on the mouth - once you start tasting the whites they will kill the taste of the reds! Don't taste the reds after the whites! " said Serge with such authority and gravitas that I am sure it had everyone scrambling to try the reds before getting enmeshed/swallowed by these herculean whites!!

I sure was still scrambling to catch-up and enjoy them thoroughly before diving into the whites. I was still going a mile-a-minute. I started running at this tasting and I had not slowed down a bit, I had even picked up both speed and enthusiasm. Serge as well as his wines were both inspiring me. I think they were inspiring everyone.

Serge wanted to hear from us. He constantly asked us to comment and to share our observations. He waited/paused patiently for any of us to voice any comment, any little comment at all! Just make one, any one!! You could feel his desire for us to share, to perhaps enlighten him, too? He's like that / appreciate it. Don't hold back! This is not the time or the place to hold back! That's what I sensed he was saying and feeling as he spoke with such passion and intensity.

" Matching of the foods only white wine ( can really do it ) - no other - oh la la! Only wine which will cover all dishes - it ( the white ) will adjust itself - it has the ability to adjust to the foods / provide fascination / to marry to foods - ( I have ) introduced you to a new world " Serge was talking about how his whites work better with food, complement better almost any dish better than his reds. They open a new world to us - that they complement better , that they in doing this provide a certain amount of fascination as a result. I agree. I believe him, too.

I have seen this before with other white wines like the great Italian bottle of Umbrian Falesco white made from the indigenous grape of Roscetto from Lazio where Riccardo Cotarella was born I believe. So just like Serge , Riccardo believes in his whites, too and recommended that we try it ( a couple of years ago at a similarly small seminar/wine-tasting/luncheon at Johnny's On The Half Shell restaurant with all the foods served to us. I agreed, it worked better than the reds from Riccardo's selection of Umbrian Italian wines ( Merlot and Sangiovese and Cabernet blends ). I was actually shocked and thrilled all at once. So even though there was no food yesterday with Serge's wines at Zaytinya restaurant I strongly believe that they , the whites would probably complement a greater range of the foods than Serge's reds would have.

Next time I recommend that the Broadbent group include at least some finger foods to bring this point home clearly. I also recommend that they have water poured for people at each seating. I could have used some.

" With whites " continues Serge , " 2000 almost years of age ... a combination of Chasselas ( a French-Swiss grape and the Semillon ( white Merlot ) ... goes well with foie gras. I don't want a sweet thing with foie gras. I don't want to get tired, ... add salt ( how did Serge mean this? Literally add salt or provide a wine that acts a bit like salt to add additional flavors and contrasts? ), fascinating - don't want to end up with sweetness " continues Serge as he talks about how to combine his whites with foods, especially with foie gras.

" The whites , so deep-gold in color. The 2000 - funk, deep color, smells oxidized, bad!! so funky - so not liked by the general public !! A turn-off to most/many/ not appealing ... the nuts come through at the end, a nice creamy finish, so silky, so velvety - cream- nutty nectar! Golden smooth silky nectar! " These are my words, not Serge's. I'm getting caught-up in the moment here. I'm loving these amazing whites and Serge must have taken a breath for me to get all these thoughts in sideways! I liked the wine once I git past or at least used to the oxidized nose of stinky sherry.

" 1990 - deeper color than the 2000, no preservatives, completely natural. " said Serge to which I immediately added my thoughts : " So much more washed-out / more mild, less distinct, less flavorful - less highs/lows than the 2000. Wow, It takes/ catches me off-guard. So silky, I like the velvet - it was nice to revisit later, too... " again, these are my thoughts.
" the 1970 ... muskier, nice mild cream of nut bouquet. Full yet smooth yet velvet so pleasing on the palate and on swallowing. I love the cream, the softness - the elegance of this 1970. I really love it - I could drink this easily !! Then I hear the word " celery?! " Is there celery in the bouquet, in the taste?. The chefs are talking about celery in the taste. Everyone gets celery - a savory quality - ... now revisiting it, now I get a sweeter bouquet.

" Sing to me 1964! Wow! Double/triple wow - the 1964! So much body and character and taste. It's complete in every way, so rich and complete and medium-bodied and pleasing!! " These are more of my thoughts as I roll the wine over my palate and finally speak out to the group gathered around the table.

Serge has got me all caught-up in this special moment and I tell the group my thoughts about my reactions to all of the whites and find both things I love and things I consider perhaps flaws in every one of them except in the 1964. I speak of the oxidized bouquet of the 2000 and how it must be difficult to sell in a restaurant, that many people will not understand or appreciate it. The sommeliers/ waiters counter that they explain the wines well to their customers. I counter right back that I have never had a wine explained thoroughly like one of Serge's to me while dining in a restaurant and that I am still filled with awe for them that do and worry for bottles returned because they are misunderstood.

One of the sommeliers said that this had never happened in all the bottles that he had recommended of Serge's whites. I'm glad for him though doubtful that this would be the general rule and not the exception? To think that all customers are looking for and prepared for such a unique experience is hard for me to imagine after all the years that I have sold wines in retail stores.

Over all I think the discourse went well with the temperature going up and some disagreement amongst us. I do believe that Serge was genuinely pleased with my positive comments of the old 1964 white wine of his and he smiled and his energy and delivery increased in both strength and conviction. He was rallied by my words I feel and that really pleased me then and still now. I meant every one of them, too. That 1964 is and was amazing.

I met the sommelier Moez Ben Achour ( 202-296-1166 - what did Moez think of all this? I know he said he agreed with me on one point. I will have to ask him later his impressions ) from Marcel's who sat next to me at the tasting. He spoke in French first with Serge after the tasting and then I followed his lead and did the same. There was no time. We were all on tight schedules I believe. It was 4 P.M. and Serge had stopped speaking because it was time. But before he did that he looked around the table and asked if anyone wanted any more wine? He raised the decanter of 1964 and said that it was free! I gladly raised my glass in his direction wanting more and he poured me some. Thanks Serge, what a grand treat!

I was taking a taxi so I did not care. I was on a CHATEAU MUSAR / SERGE HOCHAR high! I spoke briefly to Serge and got a business card from him and asked him to sign again my personal journal and the white sheet on which the ten wines had been poured ( I took the sheet as a souvenir as the vintages were all indicated within the circles drawn for the glasses. I even dipped my finger in each glass and then rubbed the wine onto each circle to preserve a mark/trace of it within the corresponding circle ).

The brunette lady from Broadbent sitting to my right seemed to like this marking of each circle by me. I guess she had never seen it done before or that it had never occurred to her to do herself? She never introduced herself to me. I don't know her name. She also never thanked me for coming to this small tasting of perhaps fifteen to twenty people in the trade. I found that a bit odd. I later asked her if I could take one of the empty bottles as a souvenir and get Serge to sign it for me. She said " no " saying that they needed them later. Oh well, it would have been nice but perhaps next time.

It was a grand event and I loved all the attention to detail. I have a strong feeling now having seen Serge twice that he originated and saw to it that things were done just as they were. I loved all the decanters with wine on the table just behind from where Serge stood and spoke. I loved seeing all the empty bottles, the corks and the red and yellow lead capsules there,too. They were all framed by the window and the light coming from 9th Street. This was quite the production and beautifully-orchestrated for the most part.

This was in a way like the second part of my tasting at Zaytinya with Serge. The first was much smaller and much more intimate ( I think in 2006 ). I will blog soon about it. I have pictures of that with owner/chef Andre attending with general manager Tony there, too : Chris Pigott, Terry Sheiffel ( spelling ? ), Serge, myself and one or two others from Zaytinya? I can't remember exactly. It was, however, one of the greatest dining experiences of my entire life!

There we were, a small group of us with as many glasses, decanters and bottles all gathered round us and Andre and Serge meeting for the first time and igniting the imaginations of each other with both food and wine. Andre just kept ordering one tapa after the other and so after the tasting we were all able to enjoy our wines with the wonderful food of Zaytinya and have Andre explain and make it come to life with words as the flavors came to life on our palates - all at the same time ; magical!

So I have to take this moment to thank everyone involved on both occasions. These two all-too-brief afternoon moments at Zaytinya with Serge Hochar, Andre and CHATEAU MUSAR were so very wonderful and special for me. I grew a bit at each of these events. Thank you for enlightening me. If I have made any mistakes in paraphrasing you Serge I apologize. I tried to write as quickly and as accurately as you spoke. What a roller coaster ride it's been.

I just added a couple of pictures I took this morning of my tasting sheet from the event. The stains in each of the circles is from the glass of wine I had of that vintage. I dipped my hand into the glass and quickly appled some of the wine within each circle. The marks are faint but DNA smaples would reveal that they are each very distinct even though related. Cheers, TONY



Pictures below are from my first luncheon, a small one with Serge and Jose, ony, Chris, terry and more ... cheers,  TONY  1/ 7 / 2015  


Glad I found these and can add them here! These are my pictures that I took before using a digital camera and so I just recently scanned them here. Sorry it has taken me so much time to do this! Oh well, better late than not at all. They tell a great story of a great luncheon for a very few privileged few like Sotiris and me, Chris, Terry and Jose, too for that matter, and Tony, the waiters that served us, a small intimate luncheon that lasted three hours and I loved every minute, really loved it all!


























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